Why I love surfing

Self portrait from Easky, Ireland in october 2012. More than 20 years ago my good friend Mathias Wiberg asked me if I wanted to tag along to Easky, Ireland and learn how to surf. I was in the middle of my snowboard career and surfing felt

I miss surfing.

Later this day the river was flooding food from the main land. The sharks ended up chasing me to the beach That is me up there. About to cut back into the white water and sitting on the right, after surf. Below shows me right after

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